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Sunday, April 13, 2008

What You Should Never Do When You Buy A Car

Sooner or later most people buy a new car. It doesn't matter if it's your third new car or your first, it almost always happens sometime.

There is an art to buying a new car and if you know it, you're better prepared when that day arrives.

Every car buyer knows that there are tricks to getting a car at a reasonable price. Dealerships and private sellers rarely mark the car at it's actual worth.

Instead, they mark the price up a little so that they make a good profit for themselves. Another reason is that this lets them give their salespeople better commissions, and this makes them work harder to sell the car to you.

Whatever the reason, almost all dealerships can be talked down on their initial prices, if you know how to haggle properly. When you buy a car, keep this in mind all the time.

The savvy buyer will know that they can talk the dealership's prices down a little bit, if he/she knows the dealer's lingo and tricks beforehand and shows that he/she are prepared to deal with them.


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Salesmen are there to try and hustle a good price for the company, while you are trying to hustle a good price for yourself.

If you have ever wanted to get your money's worth out of buying a car, then this will be your comprehensive guide to getting through all of the bull and getting a car at a good price.

Most of the time, it isn't even just the deal of buying a car that is the problem. Dealers and salesmen have a way of getting extra money out of you for the "extras".

Many people don't even realize that they purchased the extras until the deal has been closed. And then it's too late.

Salesmen speak their own language, and to know when you are being sold on something that you don't want, you need to know how to speak the same language as the salesmen do. Once you do, you will never again be oversold when you buy a car.

Buying a car doesn't have to be scary and it doesn't have to be the worst experience of your life. Many people are worried when they buy a car because they know that they are likely going to get ripped off.

About the author:
Complements of http://USGasTracker.org,a premier company which helps the consumer save money on gasoline. Thousands of gas stations across the nation are tracked daily to guarantee the lowest prices on gasoline anywhere in the United States.

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Thursday, April 3, 2008

Timing belts, the sleeping time bomb

When buying a used car always insist on determining if the vehicle has a rubber timing-belt. Be aware that about five years ago an International Oil Company did a follow up on 5,000 cars it had turned back after 3 year leases and traced them to their eventual private owners. All the cars had by then passed through wholesale auction markets and likely one or more retail dealers before being sold to a private owner. The survey disclosed that 50% of the cars had their odometers illegally turned back.

When buying a used car, supposedly with 40,000 miles for example, and determining it has a rubber timing belt, insist on a written guarantee from the seller to guarantee in writing to replace the timing belt at no charge if it fails within another 20,000 miles, a typical recommended total amount (Call any Dealer to get the recommended amount for the particular make of vehicle). After all, the vehicle may in fact already have 55,000 miles on it. If the seller will not make that guarantee, then he is admitting that the mileage is probably not accurate and by implication may well have been turned back. If the seller will not make that guarantee, consider a compromise, such as $100 maximum cost. If not acceptable, walk away and look elsewhere."

Before buying any car, especially 4-cylinder foreign cars, or even 6-cyl. BMW, be aware of the unavoidable cost of $400-$800 to replace the timing belt at anywhere from 50,000 to 70,000 miles if the car has an 'interference' type of engine. The sales person will invariably not mention that an 'interference' type engine powers the vehicle and may not even know what one is. If a timing belt on an interference engine is not replaced at recommended intervals, the repair cost when the belt breaks (not gradually, but always catastrophically) could increase to $3,000 to $5,000 due to engine failure because parts have smashed into each other


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An 'interference' engine is an engine design that has been avoided by some manufacturers for well over 80 years. General Motors, Chrysler, etc., typically use a metal chain-type timing belt on push-rod engines (often called a timing chain) to transmit torque from the engine crankshaft o the engine camshaft that opens the valves that admit air and fuel. (Note: on some new cars the fuel is admitted not through the valves but through injectors in the top of the cylinder. Rather than use a steel timing chain, interference engines may use a rubber timing belt with its limited life, whereas steel timing belts typically last 150,000 to 200,000 miles or more.

Valves open further in an interference engine and project further into the combustion chamber than in a 'free-running' engine. This allows outside air at atmospheric pressure flow faster into the combustion chamber through the larger valve opening. The engine can therefore inhale more air, be a little smaller, and still create as much power while reducing its. manufactured cost and also guaranteeing future repair business for its dealer. If a rubber timing belt breaks by not being replaced soon enough, some of the valves stuck in their open position will collide with the top of the pistons, thereby breaking or irreversibly damaging one or the other or both. To make matters worse, it is not possible to measure the wear on such a rubber belt so that it could be replaced when there is some indication of imminent failure. Failure in these belts is catastrophic, without warning. This will require a whole new engine be installed. Woe to the owner.

Finally, the rubber belt may have to be replaced long before 60,000 miles solely due to its age. This is really playing a bad poker hand. Interference engines are like a time bomb waiting to explode unless replacing the timing belt at the recommended interval. Be aware of that guaranteed future expense before buying a new car, or especially a used car, " with such an engine.

For details on this subject or for recommended mileage to replace rubber timing belts on interference engines, connect on the Internet to http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2389&location_id=3053, a worldwide
manufacturer of such belts. When its web site appears, click on Replacement parts/Automotive. Look for 'Timing belt replacement Guide'.

Visit http://www.AutoTruckData.com for related resources
Copyright 2204-2005 by Beacon Data LLC. br>Reprinted with permission

About the author:
Ralph Hoffmann has a major in Applied Mathematics, and became fascinated with the anomalies inherent in automotive leasing. His web site http://www.autotruckdata.comaddresses some of the fascinating results.

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Monday, March 24, 2008

The Secret to Saving 14% at the Gas Pump!

If you know the smart way to purchase your gas you can save a considerable amount of money. The following strategies could save you 4 percent, 5 percent, 10 percent or even 14 percent of your gas costs.

In this article you will learn the secret to using two strategies that together should provide you with a significant discount on your gas costs.

There are a number of alternatives that will result in savings. Among the best is the use of credit cards that offer rebates. By using the right cards you can lower your costs without having to change your driving habits or do any special maintanance on your car.

Many gas companies offer credit cards that pay rebates on gas purchases. The typical card will rebate you 10% on your gas purchases for the first two or three months and then rebate you 5% on your gas purchases thereafter.

For example currently Hess Oil has a credit card that will pay 10% for the first 60 days for Hess gas purchases and 5% for Hess gas purchases after 60 days.

Marathon Oil has the same 10% for 60 days 5% thereafter program. Speedway has an 8% for 60 days and 4% thereafter credit card program. All these cards also offer 1% rebates on other purchases and can be used anywhere Visa or MasterCard is accepted.

The examples just listed are issued by gas companies. There are also general market credit cards that will provide you with a discounts off your gas costs.

Many credit card companies offer cards that have special rebate amounts for gasoline. For example: currently Discover Card is issuing a Discover Gas Card that will give you back a rebate of 5 percent of the gas you purchase with the opportunity to increase it to 10 percent at selected retailers. It also gives you a percent rebate on other purchases.

Another example: Chase has a gas MasterCard that will give you a rebate of 5% for gas purchases and 2% for purchases everywhere else.


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The advantage to using a general market card as opposed to a gas credit card is that you can use the general market credit card to buy gas at any station and get the high rebate. The gas company card only pays you the high rebate at the gas company's own stations.

On the other hand the gas company credit card will generally pay you a premium of 10 percent or 8 percent for the first 60 days where the general market card may not.

That is the main strategy for getting a discount of anywhere from 4 percent up to 10 percent. Certainly any rebate is welcome in light of the cost of gasoline. 4% is good and 10% is even better. But there may be a way to cut your cost of gas even more. Maybe even to 14%.

Here's how. Many gas companies offer pre paid gas cards or gas gift cards. In many cases these prepaid cards will offer a bonus or discount. For example in some cases you can purchase a $50 gas card for $48.

That means you pay $48 for the card but the card allows you to buy $50 worth of gas. That is the same as getting a 4% discount. In most cases you must buy these prepaid cards at the gas outlet.

Now here is where the extra savings comes in. If you purchase the prepaid card using the gas company credit card during the initial period when you are getting a 10% rebate you will get a 10% rebate on the prepaid card.

Then if you are buying a prepaid card that gives you a 4% discount, the $50 dollar card for $48 cost, you are compounding your savings.

You are getting a 10% savings on the rebate and you are getting a 4% savings on the prepaid card. In total you are getting a 14% savings!


About the author:
Scott Siegel is the author of "Beat The Gas Pump!" He has spent 30 years in a distribution company managing a fleet of trucks, vans and cars. As the manager he learned the best industry insider secrets of saving money and gas at the pump.Now you can take advantage of that information. To learn more about taking your money out of your gas tank and putting it back in your pocket go to:
http://www.beatthegaspump.com



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Thursday, March 13, 2008

Vehicular Diuretic

Diuretics, commonly known as "water pills," are designed to help eliminate water. In engines, water and fuel are inbred kissing cousins, that when left unsupervised, produce carbon baby abnormalities, e.g., power and performance demise, decreased mileage, increased toxic emissions, increased maintenance applications, and engine fatality.

Who should use an engine diuretic?

Machinery or vehicles dependent upon fuel to function, should snack on a nutritious engine diuretic.

Is water present in gasoline?

Yes. Like all fuels, gasoline has a fatal attraction to water. Sulfur resides in fuel, and when wedded with water, births sulfuric acid.

Sulfuric acid assaults engines. When not burned off during combustion, its carnage of carbon deposits is left strewn throughout the engine. Carbon babies cling to spark plugs, valves, oil, etc., and impair an engine’s ability to perform. Too many carbon baby deposits, the engine undertaker is knocking on the door.

Is water present in diesel fuel?

Yes. Being less refined than gasoline, diesel fuel will retain larger quantities of water. Water in diesel fuel is a breeding ground for microorganisms, or bacteria, which feed on hydrocarbons in fuel. These microorganisms produce baby spores, which grow up, become active and begin producing their own cohesive families. These families of microorganisms foster slime, which clogs filters.

The onslaught of carbon babies moves at a swifter pace in diesel powered engines, putting them at greater risk for impotency and early retirement.

At what age can an engine diuretic be used?

There are no age barriers. An engine diuretic can be used from newborn to elderly, with the exception of veteran engines (dating 1919 or earlier).

What size engines can use a diuretic?

All sizes from small, e.g., weed-wackers, lawnmowers, motorcycles, etc., to large, e.g., automobiles, boats, ships, farm and construction machinery, or 18 wheeler trucks.

Should you be concerned about fuel interaction with an engine diuretic?

Yes. Alcohol or dry gas additives reduce the lubrication ability of fuel, which can result in fuel system damage or entire engine failure. An engine diuretic with a lubricating constitution is paramount.

What does the Fuel Doctor have to say about a diuretic for engines?

Water, sulfuric acid, and carbon deposits lethally effect engines.

Gasoline, diesel, agricultural diesel, marine fuels, and bio-diesel fuels all contain water and sulfur, which begets unhealthy sulfuric acid. When not burned off during combustion, spawned carbon deposits set up squatter’s rights in engines.

Therefore, all engines need a diuretic, regardless of age or size. However, caution should be taken in choosing an engine diuretic, as some target limited areas and many rob lubrication ability of fuel.

The Fuel Doctor’s Advice and Prescription:

It is easy to minimize diaper changes on engines resulting from maintenance, toxic emissions, and fuel.

A simple pill, the size of a penny, popped into the tank at every fill up will combat water, prevent sulfuric acid damage and carbon deposit carnage, yet lubricate the entire engine.

Side effects:

· Increased engine performance and power
· Increased engine longevity
· Increased mileage
· Eradicated carbon deposits – present and future
· Decreased maintenance costs
· Decreased toxic exhaust emissions
· Decreased octane / cetane requirements

Recommended manufacturer of the ultimate engine diuretic -- UBiee Power Pill Fe3.

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**Attn Ezine editors / Site owners **
Feel free to reprint this article in its entirety in your ezine or on your site so long as you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and include the resource box as listed above.


About the author:
Dee Scrip is a well known and respected published expert author of numerous articles on PowerPill Fe-3, Home Business, Business Opportunities, Fundraising, VoIP, VoIP Security, and other related VoIP issues.
http://www.free-pc-phone.com
http://www.thefueldoctor.com
Engine Diuretic


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Wednesday, March 5, 2008

What to do when a hot engine is hard to start

Although usually engines exposed to cold weather is the most known problem related to car starting difficulties, hot engines might bring obstacles as well. Many people realize that the car do not start as easily as it should when the engine is hot and do not know what to do about it. In order to be able to overcome this problem, it is important to start by learning why it happens.

Most of the reasons by which a hot engine would be hard to start are based on problems related to the fuel. When the engine is too hot, fuel can't circulate properly due to the way in which vapor obstructs it and therefore the engine wouldn't start as easily as it should or it wouldn't start at all.

A car engine would keep on gaining temperature until a while after it was shut off. During this period of time is when the highest amount of vapor would be circulating around and therefore that is when the chances it obstructs the engine are bigger as well. This way, if you are driving in hot weather and you have just turned off the car in which you experience start problems, you should wait for a few minutes until starting it back.

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Fuel injected engines do not experience this problem as much as others do due to the fact that the fuel remains inside the injectors by being under a very high pressure. This way, fuel injected engines would not become so easily obtruded by vapors as other engines would and therefore the car would not have the same problems to start as another would.

Also, engines might become hard to start while being hot if it coincides with the season in which refiners change from a fuel blend to another. Sometimes gasoline refiners change from a higher volatility fuel to a lower one when summer approaches due to the way in which hot weather causes fuel to evaporate easier. If refiners change back to a higher volatility fuel while the engine is still exposed to days of high temperatures, this could cause the fuel to evaporate too much creating too much vapor and therefore obtruding the engine.

About the author:

Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.autorized.comPlease visit his website to learn about auto maintenance, auto insurance, auto safety and much more!


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